BRINKLOW TO LEICESTER
Oct 21st – Brinklow
Today we were treated to a spectacle of working boats heading towards Coventry.
Boats of various ages squeezed by, some wooden and some of steel with their characteristic thud-thud of single and two cylinder engines and what caught the eye was a single towed butty with smoking chimney, silent apart from the ripple of water around its huge wooden rudder.
But not everyone made us smile. The inconsiderate steerer on nb.Shoestring was demonstrating his disregard for other’s safety by “popping down to answer a call of nature” whilst on the move - single handed. Having missed a line of eight boats including ours by inches, his boat rammed the steel piling before he reappeared and grabbed the tiller. To my astonishment he uttered no word of apology but continued on his merry way, shrugging off my protests.
Later that evening we heard fireworks, somewhere in the direction of Coventry, reminding us that Diwali was being celebrated today.
Oct 22nd
A quiet day and those that could, cleaned their boats, the rest of us stayed below to avoid the showers. The working boats returned from wherever they’d been, having added to their number.
Nb.Shoestring brought up the rear but I was too slow off the mark and all I could do was stand on deck shaking my fist as he slipped out of sight.
Oct 23rd
We upped sticks in the early hours to out-run the clouds on our journey back towards Braunston, stopping for five minutes at Rugby to empty a cassette. I was so disappointed. Running across the park to the toilet block and round to the back where I’d seen another boater go earlier this month with his “parcel” I found the door securely padlocked.
There was nothing for it but to run back to the boat trying to make the cassette look light to save embarrassment.
I was so sure there was a boater’s trick here and had tried all my canal keys but it wasn’t going to be my day. I do hope no one was watching.
The forecast was half a day’s rain but it never arrived. Instead, we cruised through grey waters smooth as a mill pond under darkening skies, weaving left and right between farms and fields.

As afternoon turned to evening and crows headed for the trees we dropped anchor and added another three locks and thirty-seven bridges to our travels.
On a still evening, miles from the nearest road, sounds can carry over many hundreds of yards. This was just such an evening and as we finished roping ourselves to the bank a boat crept onto the landscape winding its way back and forth across the meadows. First came the sound of talking and laughter, followed by the clink of glasses and popping balloons until they finally came into view. Celebrating what, we shall never know but a friendlier bunch you’ll never find and they lifted our spirits from the cold and grey at the close of our first wintry day.
Oct 24th
Off again under a clear sky and with assurances from a boater in shorts !! (haven’t seen shorts for weeks now) that we would see yet one more summer’s day.
Seven bridges later we were greeted by Braunston’s church high up on the hill. What a welcoming sight this is. I wonder how many thousands of boaters have seen this view from the canal over the last 200 years?
Taking on water and paying respects to Midland Chandlers we entered one of the busiest stretches of canal in England.
Damaged the side of the boat whilst alongside the water point next to Midland Chandlers. The piling's jagged edge opens the side of your boat as you pull up against the bank. Another job for the tin of Deep Brunswick Green.
The temptation to stop for an all day breakfast at the Gongoozler’s Rest ended when we found them closed so we pressed onwards to the locks.
Passing the burnt out remains of nb.Purrrfect I made a note to check our insurance renewal date.
This boat had been someone’s home until recently.
At the Braunston lock flight we found Dave and Val with mum and son on their hired boat.
Sharing the locks we swapped stories until we reached the tunnel where Dave and Val stopped for lunch. Asking a boater from the other side how the tunnel was, we were assured it was perfectly dry today.
Lesson one – don’t believe a word they tell you, it cascaded down on us at the usual place – one hundred yards from the exit.
Out of the tunnel we turned left up the Leicester Arm of the Grand Union. What a difference from our last visit here on the way to the Fens. Weeds have been cut right back and the canal looks so much wider than before.
We moored between bridge 3 and the site of bridge 4, close to where we’d had dealings with a helicopter back in July. There were jobs to do so got distracted and cleaned the brass on the roof. True to form it rained heavily an hour later.
The evening brought a mixture of sadness and disbelief when we received a call from Mike and Pat on nb.Hyperion. On the Leeds and Liverpool canal near Wigan last night they’d been set on by a gang of teenagers bent on doing somebody harm. Bottles and stones thrown and threats of knifing, fire bombing and murder made them call 999. Apart from assurances two hours later that help was on its way and a call back at 8.30 the next day to see if anyone was injured, no police were seen or heard.
Strong complaints will be made to the police not just because they didn’t respond to a 999 call but because the Wigan station didn’t know they had a Leeds and Liverpool Canal and it wasn’t until a nearby pub was mentioned that they had any idea where Hyperion was.
Mike and Pat were understandably shaken and can’t understand why warnings haven’t been issued by BW when they’ve had problems for some time judging by the presence of anti climb paint and razor wire around the locks. After this and the troubles they experienced while passing through Blackburn and Burnley they have vowed never to cruise the Leeds and Liverpool Canal again.
25th Oct
A short journey to Watford Locks in light drizzle turned into steady rain as we looked for a lock keeper.
“We don’t walk about in the rain” was one’s comment on my second walk from the bottom lock to find someone to book us in.
You daren’t start up the flight without a slot and you don’t get a slot without tracking down the elusive locky and it can be a breath taking experience walking up and down and back again. Now I know why I was sent out the boat in the first place.
A hop, skip and a jump later we arrived in Crick. Grabbing the first empty space we sat out the rain opposite Crick Wharf watching the hired boats whiz back and forth from Crick Tunnel. Glad we stopped sooner rather than later because the winter restrictions have already applied to the next stretch of 14 day moorings. There’s only a 40 foot space left during the October to March period and at over £6 per foot per quarter it’s not the place for us to hang around. This is a “14 day no charge” towpath mooring during the summer.
26th Oct
Still at Crick Wharf we took coffee at Edwards Restaurant (Bridge 12) and wandered into the village to visit the Post Office and Co-op. Can’t comment on the menu at Edwards because we ate onboard Balmaha but if the presentation of our coffee and teacake in their lounge is anything to go by it must be really special.
27th Oct
Whilst taking on water at Crick Wharf we met the owners of nb.Sandringham who immediately recognised that the name Balmaha originated from a town at the foot of Conic Hill on the east shore of Loch Lomond and the Pass of Balmaha is part of the West Highland Way. Their walking achievements were so impressive that I decided not to confess to my preference for exploring Scotland by car. The Pass of Balmaha gave its name to our last merchant navy ship and to our present narrow boat home.
Setting out northwards we almost bumped into Dave and Val again.
Blocking the canal we exchanged news and contact details. After we had gone our separate ways we wondered if they’ll be spending money in the boat market before very much longer.
Making comparisons in the state of this old working boat with our July cruise through here we saw a worsening condition.

The engine is still intact but for how much longer? Once upon a time this would have made an interesting project.
We finally cleared another twenty-one bridges before settling down again and with the A14 at least a mile away we were surprised to find there was still a high level of road noise.
Weed control on the canal this far from Crick has become a bit sporadic. Shears would have been useful for clearing tree branches when we were forced to stop to allow boats travelling the other way. But the tow path is like a bowling green, pity we had to spoil it by sawing and splitting logs.
28th Oct
This is it for the weekend. It’s the last of the school holidays so a quiet Monday's cruise should see us somewhere in the Foxton area.
But for now we are content to watch the boats go by on the Grand Union and the farmer’s shooting friends creeping between the patches of maize stalking little brown birds.


































