Friday 22nd September 2006 - Peterborough
Warnings of heavy rain came to nothing. Today is quiet in terms of weather and it promises to be another hot one. We are off up river to Ferry Meadows in beautiful Nene park land with its happy families, ice cream and super-friendly ducks.

The first thing we notice on the Nene is a return to metric speeds. We are no longer permitted to whiz along at 7mph, instead we are restricted to 11.2kph.
Why, when everyone knows boats don’t have speedometers, don’t they round up or down to the nearest whole number? Isn’t it daft telling boats with no speed measuring apparatus that they mustn’t exceed 11.2kph?
Why not go all the way to 11.26541 which more accurately represents 7mph?

After 2 months planning (sitting on my hands) the starboard gunwale lights were fitted and make a difference now that the evenings are drawing in. At 0.13 amps for four LED strips there’s no need to worry about flattening the batteries. They could stay on all day and all night for all it matters.

Ferry Meadows brought its surprises. No.1 daughter was passing through on her way home from Peterborough so she stopped for a meal and we spent a few hours catching up on news.

Ducks won’t let you ignore them at FM. They call at the side hatch and ask “Where’s my bread?”

Our numbers increased yet again as Claire and Ter joined us for the night. More news swapping and some welcome mail – thanks you two. Love you.

But the entertainment highlight on Friday wasn’t the noisy lads running around the park calling to each other at 9pm. Instead we had the pleasure of a police helicopter at 12.30am complete with searchlights, scouring the lakes, the car parks and us.

23rd – Saturday
Today it’s the turn of police officers on foot and the inflatable dinghy. Today’s episode is part of last night’s search for a missing woman, nothing to do with the noisy brigade.

By midday we had overstayed our 24 hour welcome so we slipped quietly out of Ferry Meadows bound for Elton Lock further up the Nene.

It was another gorgeous, warm day and furry animals were feeling the heat. Cows cooled off in the river wherever they could.

Helpers at Alwalton lock showed us some of the other uses for a lock gate.

More helpers. Actually more of a hindrance this time.

We were on our knees by the time we reached Elton Mill so grabbing a piece of land we “finished with engines” and disappeared below in search of a relaxant.

24th
It was mid afternoon when we caught sight of No Problem and Moore2Life emerging from Elton lock so we waved them down as they approached our little field next to the old mill.

In the middle of the countryside, miles from anywhere and still there’s not enough room for some people.

Throwing sticks for Molly and Lucy filled the odd hour until it dawned on me that I would tire long before them. We were joined by Mark and Lorain, who we’d heard so much about and we discovered another blog to add to our list. We wish them well with their new boat build and look forward to seeing them both on the canals next year. A smashing evening was spent sitting out under the stars in the company of Vic and Sue, Chas and Anne.

NP, M2L, Balmaha

The sunset was lovely that night.

25th – Monday
It was a still, calm day as we slipped away on the next stage of our journey – to Fotheringhay for water (with its funny place to put a tap) and moorings at Ashton Lock near Oundle where we found our old friend nb.Passing Phase hidden under the trees.

We’d hardly reached the place before we were caught by M2L and NP. Taking over most of the grassy bank we settled in and joined up for nibbles on Balmaha. A very convivial evening passed as we got to know these people and enjoyed their company. It will be strange not seeing them over the winter months.

26th
Walked to Oundle, yes, walked, both of us. Explored the town and marvelled at the educational conscripts with their smart uniforms, Queen’s English and pavement politeness. Tasted Oundle’s coffee and shopped at the supermarket in town before walking home under heavy loads.
NP and M2L had left by the time we’d returned to Balmaha but we had a feeling we’d see them once again.
Messed around with cameras in the hope of poking one over the side to check for plastic bags around the prop. Short on 2” waste pipe for a waterproof case, we’ll be walking around the next village looking for rubbish skips outside DIY homes.

27th – Wednesday
Ashton Lock to Woodford.
The river banks begin to close in as we get further from the Fens. Trees stretch out to touch each other over the water, greens are at their darkest and the first signs of autumn are seen as oak leaves begin turning to yellow. Stopping at Wadenhoe we helped ourselves to apples on the ground around the water point and ate them later with the last of the blackberries we gathered at Stowbridge on the Relief Channel.

Some boat names make me laugh – nb.Dick Terrapin at Titchmarsh Mill

We know the River Nene floods but this is ridiculous, a house on stilt.

A picture for boaters, a beautiful traditional style 4 year old from the Midlands with tons of shiny brass.

Our joy knows no end as we pass NP and M2L on the approaches to Thrapston. Honking the horn we hurl friendly abuse and turn around just in time to miss the iron footbridge that catches so many boaters unawares.

That night we moored below the church at Woodford on a poorly defined grass bank and one of us fell in while trying to get back onboard. Oh dear, another pair of trousers to hang in the bathroom. At least my shins missed the boat this time and the first aid kit was spared.

28th Thursday Woodford – Irthlingborough
Nothing stirred all last night after the pheasants had roosted.
And today, looking back to Woodford, all is at peace, a delightful place.

We were treated to lessons on how not to abseil at Youth Club Camp

Arrived at Irthlingborough on the Rushden & Diamonds moorings with a football match in full swing. We accompanied their exuberant shouting by a performance of the narrowboater’s pump-out symphony.

We were joined later by M2L and NP and together we took afternoon tea on the lawn.

Invitations received, we gathered later aboard Moore 2 Life to sup and nibble until eyelids grew heavy and we crept away to our beds.

29th September – Friday
It will be another long day, the book says six to seven hours travel. In the event we take just six hours with a 30 minute stop at Wellingborough to raid Tesco’s shelves.

At Doddington lock we found someone’s visitors book inside the guillotine switch box. Leaving favourable impressions we thanked lock keepers and EA for our summer on the rivers in East Anglia and promised we’d be back just as soon as we could.
Someone is obviously taking a personal interest in this lock judging by the baskets of flowers hanging from the lock handrails.

In conclusion
The summer is coming to an end, the ducks are pairing up, swans are marking their territory and willow leaves are starting to fall. The fire beckons on an evening and one unconsciously gathers wood from the river bank to stack in the hearth. Portholes and roof hatches show signs of condensation and if brasswork hasn’t been laquered then it won’t be touched until next year.

And lastly;
Staking our spot at Cogenhoe Lock
We battened down under grey skies,
The heavens opened, the river ran fast
And tested our mooring ties.

When temptation hit, the fire was lit
And we settled in front of TV
As the fire roared, so the temperature soared
And one sweated, especially me.

16th September – Saturday
We are still on the Relief Channel and the wind has dropped to a mere whisper. Cloudy but warm so we take a walk along the road to the River Ouse to see the huge expanse of silt and mudbanks as the tide retreats.

Walking on through the village of Stowbridge we chance upon the Post Office, situated in what looks like a private house or rather a bungalow. Turning right between houses we return along the river bank and lust after ripe, unpicked blackberries. No bag, no berries.

Back at the mooring we grab two bags and dash for the hedgerows. An hour later fresh blackberries with cream were on the table.
Had to test the Heron pub before lunch but felt disappointed by the over 55’s menu and left soon after one glass. Perhaps they think old people have nothing else to wish for than good old 60’s meals of gammon and chips, scampi and chips, sausage and chips and just plain fish and chips.

We showed them by eating egg and cress sandwiches on the boat. Didn’t really, no cress, no egg, just bread.

17th
The highlight of today is visitors, actually locals, 20 minutes by car, or a full days cruising by narrowboat.

Alan and Anna, lovely people we met through No.1 daughter’s marriage, spent a few hours with us on Balmaha. After eating and much chin wagging we cruised down the channel and back with Anna at the tiller. With more blackberry picking and some fascinating stories that linked with my background in the CEGB, the afternoon whizzed by. We really enjoyed their company, a smashing couple from a lovely family.

18th
Back at Downham Market we worked on fitting LED light strips to starb’d side gunnels. 130mA current drain won’t be noticed and these lights can stay on all evening to provide back lighting in the saloon.
Shops were hit again for those essentials like milk, bread and spray foam filler.

19th
Said goodbye to the ponies and moved off the Relief Channel onto the Great Ouse again at Denver Sluice. A meeting between boaters on the EA 48hr moorings concluded with an announcement on boat departures through the sluice on this evening’s tide. Seems it’s normally a mad scramble by boaters as the lock keeper doesn’t keep a book. Let’s hope that changes in time for the IWA rally next August when hundreds of boats will expect some kind of order at each lock opening.

Booked for 5pm we waited our turn but nothing had happened at 5.30pm and two boats in front of us were standing easy. The tide was still rising and boats on the other side at Salter’s Lode won’t release until water levels allow them to pass over the silt outside their guillotine gate.

Eventually the flag went down and we were off, paired with nb Passing Phase, we sped down river with engines screaming against a fast rising tide and on the second attempt fell into the jaws of a waiting lock just as the light started to fade.

Pushing on up the creek we made it to a friendly mooring (thanks Dave) by 7.30pm at Nordelph. Tying the boat to whatever we could find we were glad to eat and drop into our cots.

20th
Up with the larks we called on Dave and Sue and after retrieving our shoes from the dog we said our goodbyes until the next time.

Marmont Priory Lock was memorable because the wind was preventing anyone getting into the lock. Pushing and poling finally got Passing Phase inside and just as another boater arrived it was our turn to go in. Cheating terribly we bow-thrusted our way out of trouble and down onto the lowest level that the Old Nene flows in these parts. If that wasn’t enough excitement we encountered a journal photographer on the way out so there’s a chance we’ll show up in Canals & Rivers magazine sometime in the future.

There’s not much that sticks up above the high river bank but we do get treats now and again. Wind generators, eight of them spinning silently, pass by on our right, the blades visibly bending at the tips in a strong breeze.

Arriving at March we shop, read up on No Problem’s engine repairs in their Blog and settle down for the night. March has a reputation in some people’s book but it was a quiet Wednesday night for us.

21st
Up with the town clock at 7am we gobbled down breakfast and headed west pausing only seconds at the boater’s dustbins on the right after the bridge.

Mile follows mile with nothing much besides grassy banks with an occasional rooftop, bridge or concrete pill-box to break the monotony.

The fishing pegs, with their numbers up into the hundreds, go on for miles on both sides of the dyke. One invents a game of spotting the highest and lowest numbers just to relieve the boredom.
Hey up, we’ve crossed the Greenwich Meridian (yawn) and hardly felt the bump.

Passing the left hand branch to Ramsey, and its end of navigation, we made a note to visit the place next time down this way. A`well placed WW2 concrete pill-box still guards the entrance.

Under canopies of willow, ash and elder we crept along the back gardens of Whittlesey

passing between high concrete walls as we met with the sharp bend just before The Boat pub. Would love to stand here next year and watch 400 boats go one way as Foxes’ hire boats try to go the other. Promises to be fun.

Before the bend…

And after the bend….

Back into the countryside we pass what looked like huge clay pits with furnaces spewing orange smoke high into the air.

It seems odd to see a huge hole dug in the Fens which is already well below sea level.
At 4 mph there’s plenty of time to work out what is happening around us and my theory is that besides brick making, clay is extracted and taken to developments in the south by train.

Finally we arrive at Stanground Lock and jump 4 feet upwards onto the Nene.

With apologies to “K” for too much boaty information, this quirky lock has a gate paddle (or is it a sluice, slacker or penstock?) above the water that drops instead of lifts to let in the water. Very tempting to look through the hole to see what’s on the other side and forget your own boat is about to smash against the lock side.

In minutes we were through the lock and back on the River Nene heading into Peterborough. Passed Jim Shead’s boat at its home mooring (ten Eye-Spy points) and settled down for the rest of the day alongside Peterbro’s embankment. Even with a breeze it reached 30 degrees this afternoon so the summer hasn’t finished yet.
On the other hand we’ve just heard the news that we shall experience the tail end of a hurricane from the western Atlantic. Should be interesting if it’s accompanied by heavy rain, the Nene is renowned for its fast rise and fall during storms. Look forward to taking pictures of narrowboats in the adjoining carpark.

Tomorrow we are looking forward to a day off and meeting family further up the Nene.

ELY

8th September – Friday
Clear skies and hot sunny days are still with us as we move north from our overnight stop at Poets Corner, at the junction of the Great Ouse and the River Cam, to Ely. We moored in town at the goose reserve – big mistake - noisy blighters don’t keep reasonable hours.
Steve from Ely paid a visit as I was polishing the brass, just to say he’d followed us in the Blog and wanted us to know that someone was interested. A very kind fella. Much appreciated Steve.

At 8pm we were ready for John and Jean from Southampton. Tummies rumbling, we sat down to an evening meal and to catch up on the goss. Late into bed that night we cat-napped between shrieks and quacks from the local night life, of the webbed feet variety.

9th
Leaving Ely after a cooked breakfast (visitors aboard) we found the river Lark and empty moorings at Prickwillow. Here we fished for perch, roach and eel and the sunshine turned us all pink, again.
Chilled out, no exertion, but on the downside Southampton lost to Ipswich – oops.

10th
Started the day by more fishing (after cooked BF of course). Got bored with the perch at Prickwillow so moved down river to moorings near the power lines and fished some more. Too easy, even Jean caught one.
But all too soon our fun was over and it was time to return to Ely where we said our goodbyes until the next time. Having learnt our lesson we declined the goose park and returned to moorings at the Maltings.

Now we don’t know about other boaters but we’ve always enjoyed our stay at Ely. Moorings are considered “safe”. In fact the grassed areas, gardens and trees are undisturbed with no signs of loutish behaviour anywhere near the river. Neither could we find as much as a dog poop on an hour’s walk up to the cathedral, down to Cromwell’s house and back through the shops past the Chandlery. Where can you do that in the Midlands? We recommend a visit to Ely, it’s been nothing but a pleasure, not withstanding goose insomnia..

11th
Seeking company we looked up No Problem and More 2 Life who were quite round the bend (moored up-river near the station).
We were glad to spend the evening with Ann, Sue and Vic at the Cutter Inn catching up on events and saying farewells, since this might be our last get together on the Fens before they head west and south and we cruise gently back to the Midlands for the winter.

Our thoughts go out to Vic and Sue as the engineer starts on their engine problems tomorrow.

12th – Tuesday.
We left Ely after taking the waters and pointed the boat at the Little Ouse and Brandon. We found it an extremely pretty river, very wide in places, tree lined and meandering with side lakes full of wild birds and recently visited by EA weedcutter boats..

Our overnight stop at GOBA moorings was miles from anywhere with cows for company.

Fishing was lousy. The only perch we saw was a Kingfisher sat on the tiller. Before the camera could open the bird had flown.
We were buzzed until 5 pm by pairs of fighter aircraft.
We were buzzed all evening by mozzies from the swamps behind the levee.
That night a beautiful sunset was followed by a spectacular light show as thunderstorms swept over us in the early hours.

13th
Today we are counting bites on arms and legs. The itching is driving us silly.
As soon as it was light and the remaining mosquitoes rounded up we moved eastwards to Brandon.

The book says this used to be malaria country many years ago, I can understand that. Might be a good reason to start drinking tonic water with my gin.
The book also says it’s an 18 meter maximum turn at Brandon. Something must have happened recently because we found bags of space; one could turn a 75 footer here.

We walked to the shops but there’s not much here. Apart from Tesco and a few odd shops up the high street there’s nothing exciting and many shut shops had closed permanently. Brandon had seen better days.

We found the Little Ouse to be a very quiet river, we only saw four boats in two days.

14th
Cruising back down river we came across a sorry sight. Narrowboat Cuba, which we had admired while going upstream two days ago, had suffered a fire and was now resting on the river bed. A casualty of the thunderstorms on Tuesday perhaps? The smell of burnt wood lingered in the air as we passed by.

There are few boats moored on the Little Ouse, some are in a sad state but one or two interesting enough to make you look a second time. Here’s someone’s idea of fun on the river, a steamboat made from a portacabin on twin hulls steered by a ship’s wheel on the roof.

Turning right at Denver we passed through a lock into the Relief Channel. It’s wide and straight, more like a linear lake than a river.
Far away in the distance can be seen a tall factory, possibly in Kings Lynn, lit up like a beacon in the sunshine.
We explored as far as the Heron pub at Stowbridge and returned up channel to Downham Market. There wasn’t another boat to be seen.
Parked at Downham Market our sixty foot boat looks like a matchstick on this waterway and was dwarfed by the floating pontoon.

If a new marina opens further down, as one of the locals suggested, then this could become a popular stretch of water for larger boats and a centre for a variety of water sports. Meanwhile it seems a waste of an amenity and begs a sail boat or two.

Ponies (wild?) walk the grassy channel banks while dozens of ducks took to flight as we passed.

15th
Walking to DM for provisions the day was a grey one, threatening to rain with a wind now from the north.
About midday we left Downham Market for the other pontoon moorings on the channel, those outside The Heron at Stowbridge.
As we turned into the current we were tossed about by the swell until we settled into the north wind, heading towards the smell of the sea. With waves as high as 12” and spray breaking over the bow we pushed on as exhilaration kicked in and completed the journey between the two pontoons in 30 minutes.

With white horses cresting the waves and trails of spume lacing the water it is easy to see why narrow boaters can’t resist the call to cross the Wash to Boston. It reminds me of a canoe expedition across the River Severn with college friend Dick, maybe thirty years ago, when anything that floated was put to good use. Didn’t know the meaning of the word danger in those days. Didn’t know all river craft had to have a licence neither.
Moored outside the Heron pub and restaurant we took stock and considered our journey home. Sadly, the time had come to plan our route back across the Middle Levels so we called the Denver lock keeper and booked our passage through to Salter’s Lode.

31st August 2006
There is a narrowboat somewhere on the canals though can’t remember where, with a notice in the window that proclaims “Towpath Telegraph”. I guess it’s the place for news and gossip. Haven’t seen a boat like that on the Fens but rumours are exchanged at locks. Today’s news was that Denver and Salter’s Lode would be closed during September because of exceptionally high tides, and yes, it was the middle of the month just when we had planned our crossing.
After a funny five minutes and considering the implications we rang the lock keepers and, of course, there’s nothing to worry about, there are no such plans. But it’s amazing how many people you can tell in just one day before the truth comes out and who knows how many boats have rescheduled their journeys.

Another rumour to reach us is that 100 boats have applied for passage through Salter’s Lode on a particular day next August, in time for the IWA National Festival at St. Ives. Although this may be true it isn’t likely to happen while current restrictions limit numbers to 6 boats each tide. Either someone in the office has lost touch with reality or someone else had better do a lot of dredging down the Ouse to Kings Lynn to enable Salter’s Lode to work with a wider tide window.

Today we said our goodbyes to David who we hope had a relaxing time, away from the stresses of work and town life. Calling for our last time at Priory Marina we saw him off at the visitor’s pontoon as we filled and emptied tanks (you know what I mean).

Heading north down river with garden shears at the ready, I was not disappointed, with plenty to hack at on the way. If this was BW territory we wouldn’t be surprised at the overhanging branches but have come to expect more from EA.

Finished today’s meanderings at Great Barford Old Mill, or for those in the know, the dark side of the island with the defunct lock. Learnt a few things about the fish in these parts from the plastic fella behind us. Some of my carp may have been bream.

1st September – Friday
These are the last few days of the school holidays. Expect the river to go crazy this weekend so we’re staying put. In the event the weather forecast was rain so, as normal, the river level dropped and we woke up stuck on a sand bank. We still haven’t learnt that lesson.

2nd
Wind picked up and the branches overhead look threatening. Spent most of the day calculating the weight of wood likely to fall on the boat and ran a pre-damage assessment program on the computer.
The results show that the branches should have fallen months ago. Switched back to completing the annual tax return and finished it – whoopee.

3rd
Today is Merchant Navy Day.
Broke out the Red Ensign and proudly flew it from a broomstick tied to the swan neck at the stern. Looked for other ships to toot at but saw none. Felt humbled and privileged to have been part of an organisation that gave up so many lives in two world wars. Agreed to put the flag away before our friends arrived at the end of the week. We are an understanding couple, and it’s my turn to give in.

Drifted with the current to Great Barford and stopped after the bridge outside the Anchor Inn.

There was a function under way in the field on the right so we pulled in on the left. Made a list of jobs and completed every one with the exception of sharpening the pepper mill. What are the chances of finding a pepper grinder sharpener on the river I wonder? Just like everything else, used to see them all the time when I was a lad, now there’s none.
Walked to Great Barford shop. It’s 12 minutes each way and if you’re fortunate the post office at the back is open. It was closed. Bought sliced bread, it’s all the bread there was on a Sunday.

4th
Great Barford is one of those rare places where locals wander down to the riverside and sit. Not necessarily gawping at boats but doing family things with the kids until evening when young couples take over the bench seats until after dark. They’re all terribly well behaved.
And in the morning when you open the curtains they are there again reading the newspaper, playing with the dog. It’s quite reassuring in a way, knowing they’re so friendly when so often the presence of locals can appear threatening.

We slipped away after taking on water and crept into St Neots, right up behind Niet Problema, on the Priory Centre Moorings. Chatted as you do, admiring Lucy’s stitches and then moved over to the park before nightfall where we continued nattering with Vic and Sue until late.

Caught up on computer cures for this and that and had a thoroughly brilliant time with a bottle or two of red and white.

5th
Sue described a hardware shop that couldn’t be missed so it was back over to the Priory Centre and a walk up town. Sure enough there were things to be bought in that shop. One must decide what to use them for later.

Set sail with No Problem and after sharing a lock we left them behind at their spot in the trees near the Paxtons while we continued to Godmanchester.
Surprise, surprise, No1 daughter was in the area on business so we guided her in to the nearest car park (near Chinese Bridge) and we all shared lunch aboard Balmaha.

Funny seeing your little ’un dressed in tidy clothes when it’s not for a wedding or a special occasion.

Couple of things to note in the diary today are the first signs of yellow leaves on trees reminding us that autumn is almost upon us and yet, on the same day, we spotted another tiny brood of ducklings which now seems out of season.

We were just too late to see Mrs Plastic fall off her boat into Godmanchester Lock but we got the gory details from the fella who was warning boaters to avoid the EA moorings because of a half fallen tree branch.

Being slight risk takers we tied up to the posts with warning notices until the wind picked up so then we scarpered down to the town moorings for the night.
A lovely place with dog walkers, pram pushers, couples arm in arm and youngsters playing on the climbing frames but at night it was only happening far away on the town quay and we slept like logs.

Godmanchester at night:-

6th
Up early and into St.Ives.
Took the last spot on the GOBA moorings behind Moore 2 Life and after hellos with Chas and Ann, walked the 10 minutes to town. A hot day, 29 Deg C in the boat with all hatches and windows open. Not a breath of wind which was good for the BBQ and good for our paintwork as we had finished up under another dead tree.

Onboard we had a great evening with Vic, Sue, Chas, Ann, Lucy and Molly. Special thanks to Chas for listening to my non-intrusive waste tank measurement ideas.
These are all super people, really good company and we look forward to meeting up again further down the road.

It’s that time of the year when everyone’s drifting slowly north and west and there’s a growing sadness at having to leave behind the tranquillity and beauty of Fenland rivers and enter once again murky brown canals with weeds and piling. We shall shortly exchange miles for kilometres, clear water for chocolate, fields to the waters edge for towpaths and hedges.

7th September 2006

Waving goodbye to NP and M2L we joined the race for St Ives Lock where another rumour was circulating.
“There are 1000 boats booked through Salter’s Lode in August next year”.
I think we should pass on the message that it’s reached 10,000 boats and really worry the residents.

Today was scary, we had plastic on our right and plastic behind us in the lock. Didn’t like the idea of one behind because this boat tends to swing when descending more than 5 feet below the bollards but he was sure that’s where he wanted to be.

It was a long drop and as expected the final back flow pushed us towards the plastic. But so violent was the movement that two ropes wouldn’t hold Balmahairy, and Mr Plastic’s face went white. When all was done he declared he thought he was going to have a narrowboat in his living room. If our engine hadn’t been running then he would have had us in the kitchinette.

Today’s journey ended at the brand new EA moorings close to Pope’s Corner. An hour’s cruise tomorrow should see us back in Ely in time to meet John and Jean from Southampton.