The Grand Union Canal - Tring

Monday 12th June
Slipping easily from our moorings into the muddy shallows near Tring we cruised north through miles of woodland where hardly a duck or a swan was to be seen. Water levels still seemed low but had recovered remarkably since Saturday. Perhaps back-pumping doesn’t cope so well with weekend traffic.

Stopping for water at Bulbourne I took a walk to look at the famous lock gate construction site.

Apart from historical buildings there’s nothing much to see, looks as if BW had quite a presence here at one time.

Threw the rubbish and cassette contents at Marsworth as we passed and resisted the call to visit the Aylesbury Arm. They say it’s a worthy diversion but it must wait for another day.

Slapton and Leighton Buzzard came and went and locks were shared with nb.Grace – last seen at Brentford as we left the Thames. Made a note of the brilliant shopping at LB – good hardware shops and a Tesco within spitting distance. Mikron Theatre drew up outside Tesco just as we left. Pity there wasn’t time to stay and watch a performance. (see http://www.mikron.org.uk/main/tour.html)

Through Soulbury locks and on to Stoke Hammond we shared locks with Florence, a narrowboat

built by Bromsgrove Boat Company 1992. That was a time when a well known lady worked there who has connections with our boat build.

And finally (Wednesday) we came to rest against nb.Petula for a BBQ care of Pete and Sula. After unending, unequalled hospitality we fell into bed fat and late, very late for us.

Thursday 15th June
What was going to be a long day turned out to be an easy journey with almost no locks and a pleasant cruise through the whole of Milton Keynes, Cosgrove and Yardley in under 6 ½ hours. MK was a pleasure to motor through, no litter, no graffiti (until Wolverton)

and a well maintained canal, a showpiece in the daytime.

The aqueduct is long enough to get a taste for heights.

But although shorter and not so high the Great Ouse aqueduct scored better in view of its scary factor because it has no ‘safety’ footpath on one side.

We were ready for a break by the time we reached Stoke Bruerne and celebrated the end of a long day with a BBQ at the bottom of the lock flight. What had started with a cool north easterly breeze and hazy sun turned out to be a fine warm evening.

Friday 16th June
Up early to avoid the crowds we ascended Stoke Bruerne locks with Lindola a new 50 foot traditional working boat with josher bow and twin cylinder Lister engine. Deceptive from outside she has her engine just inside the rear doors whilst the bathroom occupies the engine compartment. The Lister was rescued from a building site when it gave up lifting a brick hoist and after some careful restoration work looks as good as new. The original FMC name was reused after the original boat was renamed by its owner.
After sharing the lock work Lindola’s crew headed off to Braunston for a working boat rally.

We had been to Stoke B a few times but this was the first time by boat. It was interesting being the one in the lock and surprised how easy it was to forget the public were watching and listening to every comment that passed between us as we sorted out who would exit first, which gate would be shut and where the ‘windlass wielder’ would be picked up.
As we headed for the tunnel we couldn’t help noticing that the museum had squeezed out an exhibit in favour of a café.
There was panic on entering Blisworth – no headlight. Easily sorted by removing sunglasses.

(Passed three opposing boats with only two wall contacts, my paint scraping average is improving slowly - M).

From Stoke Bruerne and Blisworth tunnel the canal travels on the level. Passing Gayton Junction we commented on our planned trip through here to the river Nene and the exploration of EA country before our gold licence expires.

Couldn’t believe that only 77 miles had passed beneath us over the last 13 days or the equivalent of 1500 miles by road if the engine is the only consideration.

Friday 16th June
Moored on the Grand Union between bridges 25 and 26, just before Weedon.
Weedon is best known to us for its RBOA (Residential Boat Owners Association) AGM meeting last year in the pub on the A5. It may be a coincidence that the AGM for this year is at the same place next Saturday. We will be in Leicester, must remember to send absence apologies to Beryl’

Our present moorings are best known for its junction with the A5 and the railway, probably the same railway that has haunted us most of the way up the Grand Union. But today it is Saturday and the trains just seem to have vanished, which is nice, although the A5 seems as busy as ever. A lot depends on which way the wind is blowing and being a hot, still day we sample every sound within a mile.

Also nice is being back on a countryside canal, everyone is relaxed, some more than others. Everyone is so friendly, the fishermen are a decent lot and the tow path walkers like a chat as you pass.
We left early at 10.30 to find Weedon’s shops (walking – yuk - M) to replenish food stocks and after exploring the main street, back streets and the playing fields we gave up and asked directions.
A One Stop shop in the old village was open, the pharmacy was not and wouldn’t be until Monday and the estate agent shop was up for Let. The post office was open too which is remarkable since the purge on village post offices. Just a 20 minute walk back when you know the way.

Discovered an interesting sport. Drop bits of bread as you motor past a large group of ducklings and they will follow for miles. Small Tupperware boat found this very amusing as they passed us on their way to Weedon. I imagine it was a perfect balance between calories in and exercise out.
The best bit about Saturdays and Sundays is we sit tight and don’t fight weekenders and hired boats for cruising space. The worst bit is we must expect an occasional bashing on the steel piling.

Have noticed a growing compulsion to count BW registration numbers. Our 513175 number was the latest in December but they’re now up to 513900 and now we’re just one of last year‘s boats. But where it matters we are unrivalled – many can’t believe our paintwork is brushed and not sprayed. It isn’t unusual to see people stop on the towpath and check the cabin sides for brush marks. The paintwork has even been mistaken for a plastic coating! Apart from tunnel walls and the odd crossbow bolt we shall try to keep it that way.
A check to see what effect the scorching sun has on the dark green roof has resulted in a cool thumbs up for sprayfoam insulation. The inside cabin ceiling temperature is only slightly warmer than the shaded side wall temperature. However, we are glad we chose three roof hatches to assist the portholes in cooling the air inside.

Now all we're waiting for is MiL who is coming up for a cruise (thanks to Ter and Claire) and we can be on our way.

The cruise up the Grand Union has been a real pleasure, a clean (out of Uxbridge) wide canal with very few vegetation restrictions and so quiet, yes, very few hire boats and next to no traffic compared with the Oxford Canal. We shall come here again, maybe for the winter period depending on BW repair restrictions.

Just as importantly, diesel has been from 50 to 52p/Ltr., while it isn't the cheapest (see Thames at 48p) it compares favourably with the first half of our journey (from Leicester to the Basingstoke Canal). Pump-out seems to be £12 a time everywhere (includes Blue) and we haven't bought coal or gas on the GU so no comparisons there.

Friendliness scores 9 out of 10 but dredging struggles to score 4 points (but not quite as bad as the Wey and Basingstoke). Weed growth, or lack of, scores 9.5

Over all we are impressed with the GU so far.

The IWA National Campaign Rally at Brookwood (on the Basingstoke Canal)

24th May - the journey up the Basingstoke Canal.
With about 120 boats to get through the 11 locks of the Basingstoke Canal to Brookwood and a limit of 10 lock openings a day at each, it was going to take some time to get everyone off the Wey to the rally site. Tupperware tubs could share as many as 5 boats in a lock but the sewer tubes like Balmaha could only squeeze in two boats at a time. We paired up with Trevor, a steam driven narrowboat on its maiden voyage from Rugby. When Trevor’s fire went cold we took her rope and towed her up through the first few locks until steam was restored.

The atmosphere was carnival with decorated boats

and illuminated procession.

Hats off to all those who organised and worked at giving the public and participants a brilliant time. At times it looked as though we would sink in the clay around the stalls but it stayed dry enough.
It was a special time for us because we met old friends from Redifon days (Anthony and Hilary), a lost cousin (Richard)

and Mark, a frequent Blog visitor who’d taken the trouble to find us. All the best Mark with your boat build, we look forward to seeing you on the water next year.

The IWA Campaign Festival at Basingstoke was considered a success by everyone’s standards. It raised awareness that the Basingstoke Canal could be lost forever as a navigation if ignored and left under funded. What the long term outcome will be remains to be seen but I wonder if it was some kind of statement when the announcement came that the canal would be closed to boats until November.

Our trip back down the Basingstoke was accompanied by comments from residents along the way, “Don’t see a boat for years and then 120 come along”. Overnighting outside Pyrford Marina with the obligatory pump-out and water refill gave time for the bulk of the boats to disperse before we queued to leave the river Wey.
1st June – we say goodbye to the Wey navigation, drifting under the M25 with its disciplined graffiti

and stopped briefly to leave a note on n.b Athelstan because there may be links to Balmaha’s namesake within the Panocean Anco/Athel shipping line.

The following day saw us dive onto the Thames. I shall miss this river with its size, its waves, its attractions and the pleasure of cruising in deeper water. Another attraction is its contrasts, with diesel at 48p/litre from Lindon Lewis Marine (Shepperton Marina) while boatyards further upstream charge anything from 53p to 60p a litre.

Kingston couldn’t be passed with its plentiful free moorings and shops a short walk away. I checked out the O2 shop and accepted a free phone upgrade plus the 3G data card which is why I’d gone there in the first place. We thought we were safe looking at the crowded pubs spilling out onto the opposite river bank

but at 2am they found us and kept up a 90db conversation within feet of our bedroom. Thank you foreign students and your English friend, the one with vulgar vocabulary.
Saturdary 3rd June
After a 6.30am start, in order to reach Teddington lock by high water, we took breakfast on the tidal Thames. Surprised at how early the rowers get going, we were buzzed by them right down to Richmond where plastic gin palaces took over and mostly passed us heading east into the Big Apple.

Turning left at Brentford into the Grand Union canal we fell silent for a moment out of respect for the Thames, making a mental note to return one day and go in search of free moorings towards Greenwich.
Leaving the Thames for the Grand Union, first impressions are that this is big boys territory. Plenty of wooden sailing barges that may never taste salt water again. Lovely facilities above Brentford’s gauging lock, new brick buildings with lots of chrome but then it went downhill the nearer we got to Uxbridge.

But first our thanks go to the crew of n.b.Tafelberg who waited for us at Brentford and shared the work of 11 locks as far as their journey’s end at Bulls Bridge. It was fun matching a 6 month Beta engine to a 56 year old two cylinder as we chugged together out of one lock into the next.

The day was hot, the competition was grumpy to say the least and it brought out the worst in an angler at Norwood Top Lock. We don’t accept your curses - nasty man.

From the Paddington Arm through Uxbridge to Denham Deeplock we could have been cruising through DFS or Carpetland. Must have added a couple of miles to the journey just dodging the rubbish. But on the bright side at least the residents tie their plastic bags before they throw them in the canal, that way they float and we stand a chance of missing them.

Moored opposite Harefield Marina where, unknown to us, Bristol Fashion had been just a week earlier (see http://www.afloat.org.uk/ )
Repairs to Balmaha’s electrics (thanks M and G) and the washing machine was back in business (spoilt? yep) Tried to book a table at the St James at the Horse and Barge (yes, that’s a pub name) but due to a successful daytime sitting they’d run out of food. Denham’s village green accepted us and we ate well (thanks T and C) in very acceptable surroundings. Someone said Cilla Black lived here but we didn’t see her.

Just settling down to the Grand Union when hayfever kicked in. Running very low on Triludan. Wish I’d bought more back in 2002. Why don’t they sell Triludan anymore? It’s the only one that works for me. On the other hand the weather is consistently good and the BarBQ is getting a hammering.

South of Stocker’s lock we counted 26 goslings chaperoned by 4 Canada geese. Is this a record?

Managed to keep my stomach focussed on the next lock with its moorings right outside Tesco.
Stopped just before Hemel Hempstead. Kind boater passed us a tip – don’t moor under hawthorn trees – the droppings are hard to remove. Decided to try tree spotting at mooring time. It didn’t last long, couldn’t tell one tree from another. Settled for our standard criteria - find a mooring with water deep enough to stay afloat all night.

We do see some funny things on the canal. Couldn’t resist a picture of two cygnets riding on mummy’s back.

Just as we were looking forward to a long cold drink in the shade of a hawthorn tree we spotted a boat we’d only ever seen in brochures. Hart of February, another Sandhills boat, was moored within sight of our Friday night stop.

We were greeted by Max and Lesley and spent the best part of an hour tied alongside, comparing build features (we never get bored of this) and sampling Max’s real ale (didn’t get bored with this either). A fitting end to our journey up the Grand Union to the summit.

Mooring within earshot of Tring railway station we spent the weekend repairing boat battle scars, feeding enough ducks to satisfy a Chinese takeaway and burning a big hole in the 3G monthly allowance. This really is summer with roses, broom and elder in flower, England winning her first match and helicopters whizzing back and forth to Silverstone. Now if only I could catch one of those whopping great carp……

The journey south to the IWA National Campaign Rally at Brookwood (Basingstoke Canal)

* WITH PICTURES *

Apologies for overdue posting.

FLASHBACK
Due to popular demand a picture of MIL (mother-in-law) at the tiller in matching rain hat and slippers. Can anyone beat 86 years with false knee and dentures?

RAYNSWAY MARINA
It wasn't the first time we have had to wrench ourselves away from this excellent marina. Roots were appearing below the hull. But not before an oil change and Sharon and Bern’s sleep-over. It didn’t take long for Sharon and Bern to adjust to the confines of a narrowboat and it was all smiles as they steered us to the Hope & Anchor for lunch (thanks from both of us).

LEICESTER CITY
The start of our journey south - A gentle cruise through Leicester.
We thought of asking for police protection through the city’s canals but in the event it was mid week and raining, which was just as effective.

LIMEKILN LOCK
It was mid April and we saw the first signs of weed growth in the city's Limekiln lock and swans nesting behind factory units where they probably get a regular supply of sandwiches.

LEICESTER’S VISITOR MOORINGS
Nb.Froghopper was spotted at the city centre free moorings. I was reminded of Terry Darlington’s account of his stay here and his conversation with one of Leicester’s Riverside Rangers in his book Narrow Dog to Carcassonne. Very funny but unfortunately it may still be true.

KING’S LOCK TEA ROOMS
Called in to see Tony and Julie, to apologise for not being there during their Easter opening and musical events attended by Radio Leicester (FM 104.9). Open from Thursday to Sunday from Easter until October. You can moor before or after the lock and enjoy cooked or cold meals indoors or out, overlooking the Aylestone Meadows. We have enjoyed safe and friendly moorings throughout the year next to this ex lock keeper’s cottage.

BLABY
While taking on stores from Blaby shops (bridge 98) we bumped into Richard, our local BW operative, who dismissed my theories of aliens with his explanation of the black boxes at Leicester’s locks.

It seems these devices monitor water level and lock emptying. He couldn’t shed any light on the future of Kilby Bridge depot, neither could he confirm BW had any interest in the County Arms. Nice guy, wields a mean pitchfork. In fact he’s the third nice guy, BW fella, we’ve met from Kilby Bridge.

FOXTON
Approaching Debdale, on route to Foxton we bumped into (almost literally) nb.Lilly Pad with Carol steering and Ian polishing ready for the Loughborough Festival on the first May Bank holiday. Carol chairs our Leicester IWA branch which meets at the Oadby Tennis Club each month.
A mandatory 48 hours was spent at Foxton taking on engine room spares and saying goodbyes to family who we leave behind in Leicestershire. Had to test the new Bridge 61 pub on Friday night.

Having climbed the Foxton flight first thing Sunday morning we noticed a different climate on the southern section of the Leicester Line. Here were our first sightings of new ducklings and gorse flowers, and a busier canal altogether with marina boats flitting about all the way down to Watford locks.
Stopped at Kilworth Wharf to empty a Thetford cassette (yes, we’ve been using this for a change)
There was nothing of note apart from passing another boat in Crick Tunnel and seeing this poor specimen in the mud.

BRAUNSTON
Following a zig-zagging start-stop hire boat through the tunnel was torment especially in the middle of a busy day with traffic both ways. It was a relief when we stopped at Midland Chandlers for the obligatory cruise around the shelves looking for bits that weren't there because they're best found in an ironmongers shop.

Departing Braunston on the GU, or “borrowed Oxford Canal section”, imagine our amazement on spotting another Sandhills boat, Queen of the May. Peter and Heather are the second owners of this 4 to 5 year old boat and she has been well looked after.

We compared boats and there was nothing but admiration on both sides for the standard of fit-out, particularly the woodwork. If ours looks as good as theirs in 5 years time we’ll be happy.

MEETING No1
Before we had time to settle for the night at our favourite spot between bridges 102 and 103 a call came to say we would have company. Roger and Babs steamed in on nb.Megan, up from their old home mooring on the Basingstoke Canal in preparation for a new home on the Grand Union.

A pleasant few days were spent catching up on family and boat news with a trip to Braunston for breakfast at the Gongoozler’s Rest and village shopping.

Departing on the 27th we headed for Stockton to grab the best mooring outside the Boat Inn and prepare our ambush on nb.Hyperion on her way back from Itchington. Caught in the act of winding outside Kate Boat’s marina, Hyperion bore down on us from Stockton top lock and scuppered our plans.

MEETING No2

With moorings at a premium we fought with Ownership’s boats for a space before we descended on Mike and Pat on Hyper-onion to catch up on news. News catching took several hours and included a visit to nb.Valhalla (Jo and Alan) and the Boat Inn. Valhalla is very distinctive in its matt black with gloss black signwriting and my first impression is of a well thought out killing machine, a stealth boat. It is a pleasure to find something different on the waterways, something to make you take notice, definitely a boat for travelling at night.

NAPTON
Sadly, we had to leave Stockton and friends for that long journey south on the Oxford Canal.
News for Granny Buttons readers – the lock keeper’s cottage at Napton bottom lock has a “Sold” sign.

Climbing Napton flight we found ourselves in sandbag country. Snatching the first straight stretch of piling after bridge 124, we settled in for the bank holiday, laying low while the canal buzzed with hire boats going north, going south, some going both ways within a two hour period.

REPAIRS
Time was given to tightening the 340v alternator (thank you pink hulled steel cruiser owner for the 8mm Allen key) which I suspect is causing mains trips every time the washing machine starts. Alright on low revs, but trips on anything over 1000rpm. Tiny bits of rubber around the front of the engine housing gave further clues.

Highlight of Monday was spotting nb.Director’s Cut passing us, heading south. We knew she was in the area as Pat had seen her from Hyperion (see - http://www.pottsutting.com/tdc_log)

Fenny Compton was a quick stop for us, apart from one corner shop there was nothing to see or do, not even a Post Office.

CROPREDY
Cropredy was a little different with an atmosphere about it and preparations for the May-Fest in evidence.
Banbury was something else, plenty to see with a new shopping centre and street market but could we find an icecream on a hot summer’s day? The place was packed with boats and we almost didn’t get diesel. The word is see nb.Sea Vixen on Friday and Saturday. We moored next to the park just down from the permanent moorers and apart from the smell of bread and the factory extractor fans going all night across from us it was uneventful.

MEETING No3
The first week of May had passed when Al and Kass joined us for a weekend’s cruise to Cropredy and back. Rain soon cleared and we even saw the sun by the second day.

My best at fishing was a tiddler on the first evening but determined to get the whopper that we saw cruising around snaffling the bread, Al landed a small whale early the next morning.

Cropredy’s May-Fest was fun with Buffalo burgers and ladies Morris Dancing (is that allowed and does that mean there’s a Bag-Man?) and the usual stalls selling hats and jewellery.

The journey south was turning into a Sandhills reunion as we bumped into another Sandhill’s boat on the Oxford Canal - nb.Kathleen May. Would have been good for spares had we needed any.

EYE-SPY
Not a Sandhill’s boat but worth spotting was nb.Granny Buttons bobbing about at Aynho. Scores a maximum 8 points in the boater’s Eye-Spy book, 10 if occupied. (see website - http://www.grannybuttons.com)

HAYFEVER ALREADY?
Rain is to be expected at this time of year but I’m not accustomed to the first signs of hayfever (itchy eyes and sore throat and occasional sneeze) so early in the year. I put it down to a week’s exposure to the yellow weed.

The journey south along the Oxford Canal was a dream. Acknowledged by a trucker and a train driver as we crossed under the M40 we saw no one else until we came upon Kidlington. The sun had forced the grass into life and as we moored for the night we followed the whirr of lawnmowers and strimmers from house to house along the opposite bank. No one thought to cut ours along the tow path, we had to fight it out with the nettles.

RIVER THAMES
Turning right within sight of the A34 we entered the Thames through Duke’s Cut and Kings Lock (a different one) having decided to take the fast route past Oxford rather than crawl past the city backstreets. Entrance to the lock leading to the Thames is through the eye of a needle. Even the chimney had to come off.

OXFORD
After an overnight stop at Osney Bridge for Oxford’s shops and a feeble attempt to break into private WiFi networks we checked out the water activity centres to the south. Having been warned about Oxford’s boat clubs we cast off on the Friday while the boat sheds were still asleep.

You obviously get a much better graffiti near university towns. Must compare with Cambridge later on this year.

Generally speaking there’s very little graffiti on the upper Thames bridges, which is nice.

ABINGDON
We found Abingdon very inviting with its 5 day free mooring, a short walk to the town centre and a selection of shops including two supermarkets. Sunday found us walking the lower park with fairground and Dragon Boat Racing on the river.

Couldn’t say the same for Wallingford. The few moorings they had provided wanted to charge overnighters so we took nb.Mucky Duck’s advice and tied up in the trees just outside the area. Even so, the town was well worth a visit.

The further south we travelled the better the views. There’s space for everyone, wide open, and unlike canals, few boats cluttering the bank. But after a while the houses of the wealthy lost their interest and the feeling of not being wanted (No Mooring notices everywhere) soured the experience. There was one compensation – the variety of large sea going boats, many having had shed loads of money spent on them. The camera was busy every hour capturing sloops, barges and converted fishing boats.

There was very little to be seen of working boats, the ones we did see were discovered hammering up river and generally pulling out from behind blind bends.

Some houses at the water’s edge were fascinating. Most had taken the precaution of building on stilts or above ground cellars but I wondered how they answered insurer’s questions “How near is your house to a flood plain?”

Some even had their own built in boat house.

HENLEY
Henley burst upon the scene and we were thankful the Regatta was still in its preparation stages.

What stories, I wonder, could be told by these vessels that once traded along the Thames.

What stories, I wonder, could be told by this castle in Windsor. The flag was flying so I presume Her Majesty was watching us as we were watching her.

But the best just had to be the inventiveness of combining house and boat.

RIVER WEY
But all the fun of the Thames was destined to end. Our last manned lock for a while was Thames Lock at the entrance to the River Wey Navigation, opened in 1653 says the plaque and opened again for us on the 21st May 2006.

This has to be National Trust’s show piece because just around the corner the river and canal looked as bad as any other with its thigh high nettles, muddy tow path and lack of dredging. The brochure gives clues when it hints at shallow water but even after a week of gentle rain and two solid days of solid rain it was still too shallow to get alongside the towpath. We made the classic mistake of pulling on the ropes to get close to the bank but regretted it all night as the boat sat on the mud with a 10 degree list. On the downside the shower wouldn’t empty, on the upside I didn’t have to wash.